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Swell Builds

So for the last couple of weeks there has been no swell in Bahia but today was an amazing day! the swell was building… the next day was clean and smooth so mum took photos with a water proof case and Yani’s iPod. it was so much fun! One day when there was like 10 people out, a friend was there that could do 360 s! and we played a game that we whoop when they caught a wave hahaha it was really fun!

So we have been surfing every day ( when there has been swell ) and had so much fun! I have been riding a heavy 5’10 and Yani has been riding a light 5’8 so there have been many times when we argue over it hahaah but the best part is that we have been adopted by the local surfers , it is just so so much fun! But it felt really good when one of them said i could win the Ecuadorian titles hahah and then he said that Yani can’t cause he sucks hahhahah. Gosh some of them are so so funny! Hahahhahaha .

But Yani has a bad case of surf rage sometimes , so if he is in a bad mood and there is bad surf , with a lot of people , he will fully blast of and like almost scream at people, luckily this has only happened one when ( I have know idea why ) there was HEAPS of people out and really crapy surf , and I just reminded him that he has the better board! And to be grateful that you can surf! But the thing is in Bahìa every one goes out in the afternoon when it is much cleaner and better in the morning! So in the morning when we go out there is only 1 guy out it is really good 🙂

This post is mainly for surfing photos hahaha so sorry if what I just wrote doesn’t make sense haha.

Ps. So I am browsing thought my feed on Instagram , and I see Sally Fitzgibbons post saying that the Roxy pro in Biarritz is moved to the 24th of September …. AND I WAS JUMPING UP AND DOWN!!!! Because WE WILL BE IN FRANCE THAT TIME! And I can see Laura Enever again! I am so so happy! I have never been to a world class comp over seas! I feel awesome! HAHAHAH

Check out my Instagram account to see the video : pacha_light












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