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Keremas- a famous wave in Bali

Two days ago we went to Keremas for a surfing day trip but is wasn’t the first time I have been there… When we first went there we stayed for 2 nights and did not know that it had a reef bottom and normally big waves or that it was a very famous beach in Bali! ( Kelly slater has been there and it was the host for the Oakley Junior Championships  )  My first time out there it was fun!! I got heaps of waves… But later in the afternoon when the waves got bigger i went out and got sucked under whilst trying to duck dive a massive wave. Later on, before I went to bed my nose started to drip water form the duck dive fail!!  Ahahhahahaha also mum said that the next day I could go for a surf with a man called Damian that could take me out to good waves around the area!  But we weren’t sure if we would go…  and in the morning I found out that there was a rock bottom when I went out at low tide!! When we came back Damian was waiting with 2 other girls (in their early twenties) and found out that one of them ( Dimity) was one of the  best  girl surfers in the world!!! So we ended up going with them for a surf 🙂 it was quite big so i didn’t really catch any waves .-. Ahhaha but it was really fun to watch them catch waves 🙂 Dimity is really good!!! But we had to get back soon so we could go to Ubud. But any back to the present 🙂  We left at 8am with Damian and Another lady to go to Keremas the second time. Once we got there I basically ran out of the car straight into the water! I had a fun time ( Yani was too freaked ) and surprisingly didn’t get held under!! Ahahhahahaha I got one wave and then went for a swim in the pool at the hotel that was on the beach. When Damian came in he said I could use his board and his other spare one!! So Yani, mum and I went for a surf together!!! 😀 mum got tired quickly and then went in because there was a strong drift. But me and Yani go some great ones 😀   then we went for another swim the waves got smaller and not that many people out so we went for another surf and we had sooo much fun!! Yani said he saw some spray on on of my turns hahah i was really happy 🙂    then as i was coming in the reef was ankle deep and it had moss all over it  so i slipped and grazed my knee AND whist i bent over to see how much damage ( was a very small cut ) my fins stabbed into my back 😦 ahhah but  then when we go back to sanur i relised i had gotten sunburned really bad.. and that night i couldn’t sleep because my eyes stung.. either from the clorine or the sun.. proabbly both .-.  but yeah it was a really fun day!!! ahaha 😀

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