It is just an absolute joy and the best job in the world to be able to surf for 5 hours a day with friends, family and legends of surfing who motivate you to keep challenging your limits!
I’ve just come back from a whirlwind of a journey in Japan, a country of culture and grace and incredible food. I travelled from the city to the ocean – doing environmental talks on sustainability, ocean love and girls empowerment with the Sloth Club, shooting with the talented and gorgeous Marina Alonso for a special project I can’t wait to share with you, and hanging out with the GoPro crew for a week. We went to festivals, explored Tokyo city and drove for hours along the coastline looking for waves!
We surfed the barest of ripples on longboards, fish boards and soft tops – and it was always so much fun, but to be honest, all I could think about was getting back on my performance short boards on some big waves – turning, shading, swooping, sliding, floating, dancing…
The contrast of experiences again made me realise that the most important and sustaining thing in all these travels is to be true to yourself. With every encounter I learn something new about myself and the world – making it that much easier to step out of my comfort zone for the next adventure!
Now I’m getting boards and equipment and coaching and physical training and everything else I need to get together – with fantastic help from my sponsors and family – all to be ready in just two days to head back to South Africa – one of my all time favourite surfing destinations. So full of stunning nature, epic waves and the most open hearted of people.